The
general principles of the textile restoration are the same as other works of art: readability, visibility, compatibility and reversibility
of the interventions. It's a curatif care which is made in mind
of preservation: the aim isn't to reconstitute, but to strengthen a
work by ensuring its continued existence and its integrity. Only
reversible techniques are used, that it was done should be dismantle
after, with the least damage on the object.
Restores
intervene on the objet and they are helped by other people for
certain task, for example the dyeing and preparation of textiles.
The
intervention times on an object are very changeable and can reach 3 or
4 months of work.
Two
principal stages for the costume's restoration:
- The cleaning
Each stage of cleaning should be
carry out cautiously during the micro-aspiration, the soft brush and the
aspiration strength should be adapted to the fragilty of the piece. The wash by
demineralized water or solvent, with a few detergent, is a heavy intervention
which is practice in rare cases. Last stage of cleaning, the reshape be made at
flat with class sheet, weights or steam (but without heat addition). The
ironing is forbidden: the iron crushs and damages textile fibre.
- The consolidation
The intervention is made by
support or protection textiles, compatible with the work. The support textile,
which lines the original fabric, relieves this one of tension. The consolidation
is made by needle with point of sewing specific to the restoration.
An example of a restoration
service in situ: The Galliera Museum
The restorers of Galliera Museum
work in restoration and preventive preservation workshop of the museum, which
are in the ground floor of the building (in the basement are the storerooms)
The workshops are composed of different
space divided according to the costume journey from its arrival to the
storerooms:
·
a transit room
·
a restoration room divided in 2 separate
rooms:
-
a humid room, where are carried out evry
intervention with water and solvent (There are a washing table, a class table,
an equipment for the dyeing…)
-
a dry room, where are made the other
intervention and the studying of pieces (There are a moving table, tidying
space…
·
A dust removal room, for the micro aspiration (before put the
costumes in the storerooms or after exhibition back)
·
A quarantine room
·
A photographic studio
·
A stocking equipment room
·
A « mannequinage » room
Several restorers work in this
workshop. The Galliera museum makes restoration campaign according to each
materials
A lot of
museums haven’t workshops restoration. It’s the case of the CNCS. This one
works regularly with independent textile restorers
Video in french: Musée Galliera : Visite de l'atelier de restauration
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